Everything about The Somerset Levels totally explained
The
Somerset Levels (or
Somerset Levels and Moors as they're less commonly, but more correctly, called) is a sparsely populated
wetland area of central
Somerset,
England, between the
Quantock and
Mendip hills. They consist of marine
clay "levels" along the coast, and the inland (often
peat based) "moors". The area borders the
Severn Estuary with its very high tidal range which used to cause marine flooding but this is now largely controlled by various sea defences. The Levels are divided into two by the
Polden Hills, with the catchment areas of the
River Parrett and
Axe-
Brue on either side. This area excludes the
North Somerset Levels behind
Weston-super-Mare.
The total area of the levels amounts to approximately . It broadly corresponds to the administrative
district of
Sedgemoor but also includes the south east of
Mendip district. Approximately 70% of the area is grassland and 30% is arable. It has been suggested that if this bid were successful, it could improve flood control, but only if wetland fens were created again.
Geology and sedimentology
The Levels and Moors are a largely flat area in which there are some slightly raised parts, called "burtles" as well as higher ridges and hills. It is an agricultural region typically with open fields of permanent
grass, surrounded by ditches with
willow trees. Access to the Moors and Levels is by
"droves", for example green lanes. The Levels are a coastal sand and clay barrier about above mean sea level (roughly west of the
M5 motorway) whereas the inland Moors can be below peak tides and have large areas of
peat. The
geology of the area is that of two basins mainly surrounded by hills, the runoff from which forms rivers that originally meandered across the plain but have now been controlled by embanking and
clyses (the local name for a sluice). formations that protrude to form what would once have been islands - such as
Athelney,
Brent Knoll,
Burrow Mump and
Glastonbury Tor - the lowland landscape was formed only during the last 10,000 years, following the end of the last
ice age. Glastonbury Tor is composed of Upper
Lias Sand. The Poldens and the Isle of Wedmore are composed of
Blue Lias and
Marl, while the Mendips are largely
Carboniferous Limestone. The peak of the peat formation took place in
swamp conditions around 6,000 years ago, although in some areas it continued into
medieval times.
Drainage
The moors and levels are formed from a submerged and reclaimed landscape. Early attempts to control the water levels were possibly made by the Romans, though records only date from the 13th century, but were not widespread.
There was a port at Bleadney on the river Axe in the 8th century that enabled goods to be brought to within of Wells. In 1200 a wharf was constructed at
Rackley near
Axbridge. The Parret was navigable up as far as
Langport in 1600, with 15-20 ton barges. The
Domesday Book recorded that drainage of the higher grounds was underway, though the moors at Wedmoor were said to be useless.
Flowing through the Moors and Levels to provide the main drainage outlets are the rivers
Axe,
Brue,
Huntspill,
Parrett,
Tone and
Yeo, together with the
King's Sedgemoor Drain an artificial channel into which the river
Cary now runs. Previously it ran into the Tone while the Brue previously ran through the Panborough Gap into Meare Lake (now drained) and into the Axe. Another accomplishment in the Middle Ages was the construction of the Pillrow Cut joining the Brue and Axe, which was tidal. In 1500 there was said to be of floodable land of which only had been reclaimed. In the time of
King James plans were made to drain and enclose much of
Sedgemoor but nothing came of this. In 1638 it was reported that nearly of
Tealham and Tadham Moors were not reclaimed, with a total of being undrained. Between 1785 and 1791 much of the lowest part of the peat moors was enclosed. In 1795 John Billingsly wrote in his "Agriculture of the County of Somerset" that had been enclosed in the last 20 years in
Wedmore and
Meare, at Nyland, at Blackford, at
Mark, in
Shapwick and at
Westhay.
Controversy about the management of the drainage and flood protection has previously involved the activities of
Internal Drainage Boards . However, IDBs have been actively participating with the Parrett Catchment Partnership a partnership of 30 organisations which aims to create a new consensus on how water is to be managed, in particular looking at new ways to achieve sustainable benefits for all local stakeholders.
Sea defences
Much of the area is at, or only slightly above, sea level so that was frequently
flooded by the sea, a problem that wasn't fully resolved until the
sea defences were enhanced in the early 20th century. The
Parret is the only river that doesn't have a clyse on it.
There was a great storm in 1703 when waves came four foot over the sea-walls. The sea-wall was again breached in 1799 and filled the Axe valley with sea water. In 1872 another great flood covered and in 1919 were again inundated with sea-water, which poisoned the land for up to 7 years. Other studies have recommended maintaining the current defences for five years while undertaking further studies of available options.
Human habitation
In
prehistory it's thought that, due to winter flooding, humans restricted their use of the levels to the summer, a practice that gave rise to name of the county of Somerset (derived from
Sumorsaete, meaning
land of the summer people). A
Palaeolithic flint tool found in West Sedgemoor is the earliest indication of human presence in the area. During the 7th millennium BC the sea level rose and flooded the valleys so the
Mesolithic people occupied seasonal camps on the higher ground, indicated by scatters of flints. (the second largest hoard ever found from the
Roman Empire) may have been linked to this industry, or to the associated local
minting and
counterfeiting operation.
A number of
Saxon charters document the incorporation of areas of moor in estates, suggested that the area continued to be exploited.
Land use
The area has few trees and is dominated by
grassland, mostly used as
pasture for
dairy farming. The
River Parrett provides a source of
eels (
Anguilla anguilla) and elvers during January through to May. Other local industries that once thrived on the Levels, such as thatching and basket making, are now in serious decline. Combined with the recent drop in farm incomes, this poses a potential threat to the 'traditional' nature of the area as a whole. Subsidies are paid to farmers who manage their land in the traditional way. Fragments of willow basket were found near the Glastonbury Lake Village, and it was also used in the construction of several
Iron Age causeways. The willow was harvested using a traditional method of
coppicing, where a tree would be cut back to the main stem. New shoots of willow, called "withies", would grow out of the trunk and these would be cut periodically for use.
During the 1930s over of willow were being grown commercially on the Levels. Largely due to the displacement of baskets with plastic bags and cardboard boxes, the industry has severely declined since the 1950s. By the end of the 20th century only around were grown commercially, near the villages of
Burrowbridge,
Westonzoyland and
North Curry. At
Stoke St Gregory there's also a
Willows and Wetlands visitor centre.
Teazel growing
An unusual crop is the growing of
teazels around the
River Isle near
Chard on the heavy clay soils around
Fivehead. These are used to provide a fine finish on worsteds and snooker table cloths. Although the practice is now much reduced, at least one large firm still operates on the levels and peat lorries remain a common feature of the back roads.
Biodiversity and conservation
As a result of the wetland nature of the Moors and Levels, the area contains a rich
biodiversity of national and international importance. A wide range of
insect species is also present including rare
invertebrates, particularly beetles including the
lesser silver water beetle,
Bagous nodulosus,
Hydrophilus piceus,
Odontomyia angulata,
Oulema erichsoni and
Valvata macrostoma. In addition, the area supports an important
otter population (now a rare species in the
British Isles). 282
mink (
Mustela vison) have been captured, and this is encouraging
Water Voles (
Arvicola amphibius) to re-colonised areas of the Levels where they've been absent for ten years.
The Levels and Moors include 32
Sites of Special Scientific Interest (twelve of them also
Special Protection Areas), the
Huntspill River and
Bridgwater Bay National Nature Reserves, the Somerset Levels and Moors
Ramsar Site covering about,
Shapwick Heath National Nature Reserve, and numerous
Scheduled Ancient Monuments.
In addition, some of the Levels are recognised as an
Environmentally Sensitive Area, while other portions are designated as
Areas of High Archaeological Potential. Despite this, there's currently no single
conservation designation covering the entire area of the Levels and Moors.
A survey in 2005 discovered that 11 of the known wooden Bronze Age causeways on the Levels had been destroyed or vanished, while others were seriously damaged. The reduction in water levels and subsequent exposure of the timber to oxygen and
Aerobic bacteria is the cause of the destruction.
Somerset Levels Project
This research project was started in 1964 by John Coles. It published an important series of papers on many aspects of the Levels. Possibly its most important excavations were that of the Sweet Track, for 15 years starting in 1970, and of a
Jadeite axe in 1973. Eight
radiocarbon determinations date axe around 3200 BC.
Shapwick Project
This project was begun by
Mick Aston of
Bristol University to investigate the evolution of a typical English village. A preliminary study of the village history was carried out using maps and documents, then surveys of the buildings were made together with botanical surveys. Field walking was carried out with excavation of keysites. A report on the project was published in eight volumes.
There is an overview of project in
Mick's Archaeology.
Tourism
Being largely flat, the Levels are well suited to
bicycles, and a number of
cycle routes exist including the Withy Way Cycle Route (22 miles, 35 km), Avalon Marshes Cycle Route (28 miles, 45 km), Peat Moors Cycle Route (24 miles, 39 km) and the Isle Valley Cycle Route (28 miles, 45 km). The
River Parrett Trail
(47 miles, 75 km)
long-distance footpath is also within the area.
There are currently four visitors' centres that aim to convey various aspects of the Levels.
The Peat Moors Centre to the west of Glastonbury is dedicated to the archaeology, history and geology of the area. It also includes reconstructions of some of the archaeological discoveries, including a number of Iron Age round houses and the world's oldest engineered highway, the Sweet Track. From time to time the centre offers courses in a number of ancient technologies in subjects including textiles, clothing and basket making, as well as staging various open days, displays and demonstrations.
In Glastonbury itself is The Tribunal, a medieval merchant's house containing possessions and works of art from the Glastonbury Lake Village which were preserved in almost perfect condition in the peat after the village was abandoned. Also in Glastonbury, the Somerset Rural Life Museum contains information about crafts and folk traditions on the Levels, including willow growing.
The Langport & River Parrett Visitor Centre located at Langport details local life, history and wildlife.
In addition, Westonzoyland Pumping Station Museum, located near the town on the River Parrett, is housed in one of the earliest steam-powered pumping stations on the Levels, dating from the 1830s. The station was closed in the 1950s. Featuring several steam engines, some built locally, the museum holds a number of live steam days each year.
Further Information
Get more info on 'Somerset Levels'.
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